Lapse Controller Mini (LCMini)

Lapse Controller Mini (LCMini)

This little factor is a free open supply DIY intervalomenter for timelapse images based mostly on the Teensy three.2 board. This controller is absolutely practical and nonetheless new options are being added once in a while. You might be additionally in a position to obtain the code and do your personal modifications.

Lapse Controller Mini options

  • Intervals will be outlined in zero.1 second steps
  • Simply operable with gloves
  • Straightforward readable display (from vivid daylight to black night time)
  • Detailed information of the timelapse standing (remaining images, remaining time, and so on)
  • Timelapse parameters will be up to date whereas working
  • Helps any digicam the place an standardized analog launch cable is accessible
  • 12hr operation, battery recharged by way of micro-USB

Technical particulars

  • Teensy three.2 board (72 MHz Cortex-M4)
  • three.5mm stereo jack for digicam connection
  • 128×64 TFT Display that auto turns-off for saving battery
  • 2 swap buttons + nav button swap
  • Rechargable Li-Ion 600mAH
  • Inside buzzer
  • On/off swap
  • RTC (Actual time clock)
  • Customized 3d printed case

This tutorial assumes that you understand fundamental digital stuff

  • Tips on how to solder digital parts
  • Tips on how to 3d print (or how request a 3d print)
  • Arduino IDE fundamentals (how one can compile, add firmware, set up Teensy for Arduino Ide)


Hooked up you’ll find the whole lot you want to full this mission.

  • Customized PCB – obtain Schematic/Board recordsdata
  • Elements checklist – obtain right here
  • 3d printed case – Cad design and LST recordsdata right here
  • Firmware – Arduino sketch right here

Instructor Notes

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Step 1: Making ready the 3d Case

After 3d components are printed, it’s required to finish its preparation earlier than assembling LCMini. This consists of:

  • Set up brass inserts for pcb screws – Use M2.5X3X3.5mm brass inserts. For this you do not want any fancy instrument, simply use a solder tip as proven in right here
  • Put together buttons caps in order that they match the case – Take away inside plastic of the button so you may match the 3d printed spacer. This can give the button the precise top to suit the space to pcb when assembled.

Step 2: Making ready the TFT Display Pcb

The mission consist of two pcb’s. The primary one is for the TFT Display. Absorb consideration that the pcb thickness is zero.8mm to precisely match throughout the case.

Step three: Making ready the Teensy Board

The teensy three.2 board must be personalized to our mission earlier than it’s soldered in the principle pcb. This consists of:

  • Solder the 32.768KHZ crystal oscillator to teensy board – Crystal doesn’t have an outlined polarity. See photos to find the place to solder and go to this hyperlink for added data.
  • Solder the RTC battery – First, you want to disassembly the battery from the module. At this level, I’ve not but discovered a direct provide for this battery. If anybody is aware of the place to purchase it please let me know. See photos to learn the way to disassembly the battery. Please notice this part do have a polarity. Use a multimeter to seek out out the + & – connections. Optimistic goes to VBat and Detrimental to GND as indicated within the photos.
  • Reduce jumper on Teensy three.2 board [Optional] – If you don’t reduce the jumper, you’ll discover that when LCMini is linked by its micro-usb connector, it’ll activate whatever the place of the on/off swap. Nonetheless, in any case will cost its battery.

Step four: Soldering Elements to Fundamental Pcb

Please observe the checklist of parts and schematics connected. I strongly suggest you left teensy board to the tip as it’s the most costly part.

Absorb consideration that the pcb thickness is 1 mm to precisely match throughout the case.

Elements will be simply soldered as they don’t seem to be too tiny. Just a bit persistence.

Step 5: Connecting Battery and Swap

  • Battery – Discover polarity when soldering the battery. Any capability will probably be okay so long as it suits throughout the case. I like to recommend between 450maH and 1000maH
  • Swap – No polarity, simply solder between A & B pads within the board to the swap. Use silicone to repair the cables and keep away from a broke connection on account of vibration.

Step 6: Assembling All Elements!

Time for assembling all components. Please see video connected

Step 7:

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